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xTool F1 UltraBeginner

How to Fix Washed-Out Laser Engravings on Wood

A simple two-pass trick for wood: engrave your design as normal, then score an outline over it without moving anything, so the design stands out instead of fading into the grain.

These two pine coasters were engraved with exactly the same settings, the same design and the same material. One of them pops and the other one doesn't.

If you engrave on wood a lot and your designs often come out a bit washed out, especially on pine, bamboo and other woods that can be inconsistent, this trick will help. It works on any laser engraver, not just the xTool machines I use, and it's an easy one to follow.

Jump to: Set up the job · The normal engraving · The trick: add a score pass · The result

Two pine log coasters with the same wolf design, one washed out and one with crisp dark outlines

Set up the job

A pine log slice placed in a green self-centering jig on the laser bed

  1. Put your item in place. I put my pine log slice straight into my self-centering jig, so I know exactly where it is every time.
  2. Import your design. I'm using an SVG vector, which is a great place to start because you can scale it up or down as much as you like and it keeps its quality.
  3. Position it on the item.

The Select material window with Pine Coaster selected

Then choose your material. The xTool material library is great for this, and the Pine Coaster settings work out of the box. I've refined mine because I like a darker engraving.

The wolf design on the camera view with the engrave settings: blue laser, power 100%, speed 400 mm/s, 1 pass, 100 lines per cm

Here are the engrave settings I used on the xTool F1 Ultra:

Engrave Value
Laser Blue (diode)
Power 100%
Speed 400 mm/s
Passes 1
Lines per cm 100

Frame the item to make sure the design is exactly where you want it. It always needs to be central, or it just looks a bit odd.

The normal engraving

The laser engraving the wolf design onto the pine log in the jig

Click Process and start the job. On mine, the estimated time was 3 minutes 59 seconds.

The finished first coaster, with the wolf design looking light and a little washed out

There's absolutely nothing wrong with this. If that's what your engravings look like, it's fine. But the design blends into the grain a bit and loses some definition. We can make it better.

The trick: add a score pass on top

For the comparison I loaded a second log, a slightly different shape and tone, put it in the jig, repositioned the design and engraved it with exactly the same settings. Then comes the secret ingredient.

The engraved design selected in the software with a reminder not to move the item or the image

Do not touch the design and do not touch the item. Leave everything exactly where it is, so the second pass lines up perfectly with the first.

  1. Select the design.
  2. Switch it from Engrave to Score. The software now traces lines around the outside of every shape. It's the equivalent of coloring in and then outlining it.
  3. Set your score settings (mine are below, or use the material library settings).
  4. Click Process and run it.

The design switched to Score, showing outlines only, with the score settings: blue laser, power 80%, speed 50 mm/s, 1 pass, kerf offset off

Score Value
Laser Blue (diode)
Power 80%
Speed 50 mm/s
Passes 1
Kerf offset Off

The laser scoring outlines around the engraved wolf design

Then sit back and watch. It's very satisfying seeing the outlines go round every edge of the design.

The result

The finished second coaster with dark, crisp outlines making the wolf design stand out

That's the finished piece. The outlines give every shape a crisp dark edge, so the design stands out from the wood grain instead of fading into it. It's the same idea whatever you're using. I did it in xTool's software (back then it was xTool Creative Space; the same Score, Engrave and Cut options are in xTool Studio today), but it works in LightBurn and on any laser, because the concept is the same.

Woods vary a lot, so run a quick test on an offcut before you do a real piece. For more tested settings, have a look at my free Laser Settings Library and the xTool F1 Ultra settings page. If you'd like a jig that holds round blanks in the middle every time, my self-centering jigs are in the F1 Ultra and F2 Ultra jigs.

Give it a try

Whether you make things for fun or to sell, it's a quick way to make your designs pop. Let me know how you get on in the comments on the video. I always love hearing from you.

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