xTool X1 Mobile Work Stand: Step by Step Assembly Guide

The xTool X1 is a big, heavy machine. Mine was on a table that's fine for most lasers, but I didn't trust it with the X1 for long. So when xTool sent me the X1 Mobile Work Stand, I filmed the whole build in case you're thinking about getting one.

The instructions are good, but there are a few things that are easy to get the wrong way round, and a couple of fiddly bits. Here's every step in order, with what to watch out for.

Jump to: In the box · Build the frame · Screw it together · Brackets and top boards · Storage boards · Casters · Conveyor feeder hooks · My verdict

What's in the box

It comes in a long, narrow box marked as over 15 kg (33 lb), and it's definitely over that. Inside are the white metal legs and beams, four heavy duty casters, the wooden boards, brackets, screws, an Allen key, a Phillips screwdriver and a quick start guide. Lay it all out before you start. The guide is well illustrated and I followed it picture by picture.

You can build it with the tools in the box. I used an impact driver with a 5 mm hex bit to speed up the metal screws, but I did the final tightening by hand.

Step 1 and 2: Build the frame

1. Stand the four shorter beams on their ends in a rough rectangle. The end with the hole goes on the floor. The instructions make a point of this, so check it.
2. Slot in the short cross pieces. The little features and the hole on these need to face up. These set the width of the stand. They just push down into the uprights and interlock, which is a really nice design, especially if you're building it on your own.

The long beams aren't all the same, so check the labels before you go further.

3. Fit the two B beams (the ones without xTool written on them). Their holes face inwards, toward the center of the frame.
4. Fit the two C beams (the ones with the xTool logo). The logo faces outwards on both sides.

Step 3: Screw the frame together

1. Carefully tip the frame forward. Underneath each interlocking joint there are holes, at the top and the bottom.
2. Put an M6 x 16 screw in each one. You'll use 16 of them. They have washers and spring washers built in, so they hold their tension and shouldn't loosen with vibration.
3. Go round with the Allen key (Allen wrench) and tighten them by hand. I didn't want to go too tight with the impact driver and risk damaging anything.

Step 4 and 5: Brackets and the top boards

1. Fit six brackets into the holes around the top of the frame, using the same M6 x 16 screws. The flat side goes on top, flush with the frame, because the boards sit on these. Make sure they sit flush and at the right angle.
2. Fit the two larger boards on top, using the ST4 x 12 self-tapping screws and the Phillips screwdriver. Line the holes in the boards up with the brackets.

Use a hand screwdriver here, not a power tool. These screws cut their own thread into the board, and too much power can strip it so it never tightens properly.

One small criticism: the screwdriver in the box doesn't engage the screw heads very well, so be careful. I ended up switching to a different screwdriver.

Step 6 and 7: The storage boards (optional)

1. Fit four more brackets to the middle part of the frame, again facing upwards. Tighten them with the Allen key and keep them straight across.
2. Fit the smaller boards with the self-tapping screws, with the holes lined up the same way as before.

These were the fiddliest part of the build. My tip: push the screw through the hole in the board first, then line the board up with the bracket. It's much easier than lining up the board and then trying to find the hole with the screw.

These boards are shelves for other X1 modules. You don't have to fit them. One side is for the galvo source power adapter and the other is for a fire safety set. I don't have the fire safety set, so I only fitted one and kept the rest of the space free. You can also cut your own board to size to fit underneath.

Step 8: Fit the casters

1. Turn the stand upside down. This is a good time to go round and check everything is tight.
2. Fit a caster in each corner with four M6 x 10 screws each. They only go on one way.
3. The holes are slotted, so you have a bit of room to adjust. Position each caster where you want it, then tighten.
4. Carefully turn it over and lift it back onto its wheels.

The casters have brakes. Easy on, easy off, so you can lock it wherever you need it.

Optional: conveyor feeder hooks

The last parts are only needed if you use the automatic conveyor feeder. There's a long pair for the front and a short pair for the rear.

1. Loosen the screw so it's as far out as you need.
2. Hook it over the side of the stand.
3. Slide it to where you want it, then tighten the screw back up.

I left mine off because my stand sits against a wall.

My verdict

Get help lifting the X1 onto it, because it's heavy. Once it's on, the box section frame feels very sturdy, far more than my old table did.

• Work height: I'm 6 ft, and it's a great height for loading, adjusting and checking jobs. If you're shorter, it'll probably still be fine.
• Fit: the top is shaped to hug the edge of the machine, and you can still get underneath it for the ventilation.
• Mobility: it pushes neatly into a small space when you don't need it, and you can roll it out or turn it round when you need room around it, for example with the conveyor feeder.
• Build quality: the fasteners and holes feel premium and well designed. It doesn't feel like a cheap kit.

The only niggles are the screwdriver in the box and those storage brackets, which were fiddly. Each one is held by a single screw on the other side, so it has the potential to tilt. Mine is sturdy, but it's worth checking yours.

I built it on my own. It took me 30 to 40 minutes while filming, and I think you could easily do it in under 20 without a camera.

Building yours?

If you get stuck on a step, ask in the comments on the video. And once the X1 is set up, my X1 workplate guide is a good next read.