I ruined a fair few mugs getting this right. Faded edges, inconsistent results, one side looking good and the other terrible. It took me a while to realize it wasn't the machine. It was my setup.
After a lot of testing I've got a process that gives me clean, vibrant mugs every time on the xTool WonderPress. Here it is from design to finished mug, including what I changed to fix those faded edges and roughly what each mug costs to make.
Jump to: What you need · Design and print · Tape it tight · Shrink wrap · Oven settings · Unwrap · Cost per mug
What you need
- Sublimation mugs. Mine are 11 oz, from a pack of 12.
- Heat resistant tape.
- Sublimation paper. I use mug-sized sheets made for 11 oz mugs, but you can cut down full sheets.
- Heat shrink sleeves to wrap the mug. The WonderPress comes with some, and you can buy more.
- A heat gun. Mine is a cheap one.
- The xTool WonderPress with the Craft Oven module fitted.
- A sublimation printer. Mine is an Epson.
Step 1: Design and print
- Find a design. I used a waffle ice cream drip design from Creative Fabrica, where lots of designs are licensed for commercial use. Search for mug sublimation and you'll find plenty. The download is a set of PNG files, which is what you need. A vibrant design is a good test.
- Set up the page. I use Affinity Designer, but any design software works. My mug paper is 210 x 99 mm at 300 DPI, so I set the document to that and placed the design on it.
- Print it. I use the color profile that came with my printer so the colors print correctly. In the printer properties I chose a user-defined mug paper, Epson matte, high quality.
A sublimation print always comes out looking more faded than you expect. Don't worry. The colors come alive when it transfers onto the mug.
Step 2: Tape it on tight
This is the part that fixed my faded edges. The ink in the paper turns into a gas and transfers across, so the paper needs to be as tight and flush against the mug as possible. Contact is your friend. Don't be sparing with the tape.
- Place the transfer face down against the mug. I put my design slightly toward the bottom of the paper, so I can line the paper up flush with the base of the mug and know it's straight.
- Stick a strip of tape along one edge of the paper and fold it over the top and bottom edges of the mug.
- Have your next piece of tape ready. Pull the other side of the paper really tight round the mug, check the design is straight, and tape it down the same way.
- Seal the bottom edge with a long strip of tape, half on the paper and half folded over the base, all the way round. Patch any gaps.
- Do the same along the top. If the paper's a bit tall, just fold it over. It doesn't have to be neat, just sealed all the way round.
A lot of my failed mugs were because I wasn't taping the top and bottom. Some people say you don't need to. For me, doing it has made all the difference.
- Finally, wrap a couple of bands of tape round the middle, pulling them tight with full tension.
Step 3: Shrink wrap it
You could put it in as it is, but I go a step further. A shrink sleeve covers the whole mug and pulls the paper in even tighter.
- Pinch the sleeve where the handle will go and center the mug in it. I trim the sleeve down so only a little hangs past the bottom of the mug. It doesn't need to be a straight cut.
- Stand the mug up and slide the sleeve over, keeping it centered with the same amount either side.
- Start the heat gun on low. Shrink both sides first so it grips the mug, then work all the way round until it's tight and smooth.
Be careful with your fingers, and don't overdo it. Too much heat and the sleeve starts to tear.
Step 4: Into the WonderPress
If it isn't already fitted, lower the Craft Oven module into the groove in the center. The piece on top that seals against the heating element needs to sit centrally too.
Use the mat that comes with it. I tested with and without, and I got the best results with the mat. There's room for three or four mugs if you want to do a batch.
Turn it on and set:
| Setting | First side | Second side |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 410°F (210°C) | 410°F (210°C) |
| Time | 950 seconds | 600 seconds |
With Automatic on, the press closes and starts by itself once it reaches temperature. If you miss it, press the play button to start it yourself.
- While it heats up, lay the mug on its side in the center, with the handle resting down so it's evenly supported. Push the drawer in.
- Put the heat resistant gloves on. They come with the WonderPress, and everything from here gets very hot.
- When the first 950 seconds are done, pick the mug up and turn it 180 degrees onto the other side.
- Before you close it, drop the time to 600 seconds for the second side. Then close it and it starts again.
Step 5: Unwrap it while it's hot
It's easier to do this while the mug is still hot, so keep your gloves on. I snip into the shrink wrap with scissors so I can tear it off, then peel off all the tape and the paper. There's no right way to do it. Just don't hold the same spot too long, because the heat can get through the gloves.
Shiny, vibrant and straight all the way round. I'm really happy with that. If you want to go bigger, you can do a full wrap design too.
What each mug costs
Buying everything from Amazon in fairly small quantities, mine work out at roughly:
- Mug: about $2.05 (£1.62)
- Shrink wrap: about 40 cents (31p)
- Sublimation paper: about 5 cents (4p) a sheet
- Ink: about 13 to 25 cents (10 to 20p)
That's around $2.65 to $2.80 (£2.10 to £2.20) a mug, and you could bring it down by buying in bulk from a wholesaler. Personalized mugs sell online for roughly $6 to $13 (£5 to £10), and a full wrap with a premium look sits toward the top of that range. So there's a solid margin, especially if you make them in batches.
Got a question about your mugs?
Drop it in the comments on the video and I'll do my best to help.
