I took a flat 100 x 60 x 3 mm brass plate and turned it into a 3D castle and dragon plaque on the xTool X1 with the 60W MOPA module. The design started life as an AI image, became a depth map, and then went into xTool Studio.
The video above shows the whole thing. Here it's written out step by step, with the AI prompt I used (so you can make your own), every setting from my screen, and how I gave it that antique finish.
Jump to: Why the X1 · Machine setup · The AI image and prompt · Making the depth map · xTool Studio · Settings · Running the job · The antique finish
Why the X1 for embossing
If you've got a galvo laser like the F2 Ultra, you'll know it does a brilliant job of embossing things like coins. The X1 has a galvo style head too, but it sits on a gantry that can move it around the bed. That means it can go from coin size right up to much bigger pieces.
The maximum embossing window on the X1 is 415 x 225 mm (16.3 x 8.9 in). My plaque uses only a small part of that.
1. Set up the machine
- Clip the embossing dust hood onto the head.
- Connect it to the extraction hose, so the brass dust gets pulled away while it works.
- Put your brass on the bed and close the lid.
Check the embossing area
In xTool Studio you can see the working area for the 60W MOPA module. When you're embossing, Studio shows the maximum embossing area and grays out the rest, so it's really clear where you can and can't go. Studio also shows a reminder that metal needs the embossing protective cover fitted and that it needs a depth image to process.
2. Make the image (with my prompt)
Before the laser does anything, you need a depth map. It's a black and white image where the lighter parts stand up higher and the darker parts go deeper. That tells the laser how much brass to take away.
I made the original picture in ChatGPT. Here's the prompt I used. Swap the words in [brackets] for your own idea and size:
Create a highly detailed monochrome grayscale bas-relief artwork designed as source art for a 3D depth engraving on a [100 x 60 mm rectangular brass plaque].
The main subject is [a grand fantasy gothic castle with tall spires, turrets, battlements, arched windows, a large central entrance and layered stone architecture].
Include a secondary subject: [a large dragon coiled around the castle, its body wrapping through the towers, wings spread behind, head leaning forward], fully inside the frame.
Make the composition dramatic, balanced and richly detailed, with the focal point in the center. Add a few supporting elements: [rocky cliffs, a stone bridge, distant mountains, clouds and small carved trees].
Surround the scene with [an ornate baroque raised border frame with carved scrollwork and corner flourishes]. Keep every major element inside the frame.
Style it like a sculpted antique relief plaque: strong layered depth, smooth height transitions, bold readable forms and rich carved detail. Use a dark recessed background and lighter raised foreground surfaces so the depth is clear. Make it look like a relief sculpture, not a photograph or painting, with broad sculpted surfaces and fine detail only where it stays readable.
Avoid: cartoon styling, flat composition, tiny unreadable textures, thin fragile details, clutter, empty space, text, lettering, watermarks, people, and anything extending beyond the border.
3. Turn it into a depth map
I turned the image into a depth map on a site called SculptOK.
- In AI tools, go to AI depth map. There are loads of different settings in there.
- Upload your image.
- Click Draw. The depth map is generated on the right hand side. It's as simple as that.
You can also click 3D preview to see what it could look like once it's embossed. Download the depth map when you're happy.
4. Bring it into xTool Studio
- Import the depth map you just made. My material was already placed on the bed, so I could see it on the camera view.
- Size the design to fill out as much of the plate as you want, and line it up along the edges.
- Leave a little plain brass around the outside. I made mine slightly smaller than the plate on purpose (about 91.75 x 54.95 mm on a 100 x 60 mm plate), so there's a border around the edge and you can clearly see how deep the embossing goes.
- Change the Processing module. Mine was on the 20W diode, so I switched it to the 60W MOPA (installed in the back of the X1).
- Change the material from rock and stone to brass. Studio then gives you its Brass Embossing preset to start from.
5. The settings I used
xTool's Brass Embossing preset uses 256 layers. I dropped it to 128 layers to keep the job time down, and slowed the speed to 1,300 mm/s to hold on to the detail.
Every 10 layers the V-axis rises by 0.04 mm, which keeps the laser in focus as it cuts deeper. Here's everything from my screen:
| Setting | Value |
|---|---|
| Material | 1/8" (3 mm) C28000 Brass, relief type Metal |
| Processing module | 60W MOPA, Emboss |
| Number of layers | 128 |
| Power | 100% |
| Speed | 1,300 mm/s |
| Pass | 1 |
| Engraving mode | Bi-directional |
| Lines per cm | 300 |
| Engraving angle | 15 |
| V-axis rises | On, 0.04 mm every 10 layers |
| Pulse width | 200 ns |
| Frequency | 65 kHz |
| Feather power / speed | 98% / 2,300 mm/s |
If you want more depth and detail than I got here, go up towards the full 256 layers. It will just take longer. This was my first go with no testing or fine tuning, so treat it as a starting point and try a small test piece first.
If you've got other xTool machines, my free Laser Settings Library has nearly 300 settings I've tested, including brass embossing on the F series.
6. Process and start the job
Hit Process. Because the file is big, Studio tells you it's a large file job and it will be processed in batches.
One thing I really like: the embossing protective cover and the modules are all detected by the software. You can't accidentally have the wrong setup. It's either set up right, or it won't let you start.
- Click Start in Studio. You'll hear the machine beep as the file goes over.
- Press the button on the machine to begin.
Studio estimated 5 hours and 20 minutes for mine. It sends the file over in batches, and you can keep an eye on it the whole time through the camera in Studio. Watch the head and you'll see the gantry move it along to the next section. That's what lets the X1 emboss pieces much bigger than a galvo that stays in one place.
How well does it catch the dust?
There was a little bit of dust left on the bed, but it was a tiny amount considering how much brass was removed. Pull the hood off and you can see it has done a great job of collecting it.
7. The antique finish
Raw brass looks great, but I wanted this to look like an old antique plaque.
- Dab Birchwood Casey Brass Black on with cotton swabs and let it darken the whole piece.
- Go over it with steel wool. That takes the black off the high points and leaves it in the recesses.
That contrast is what makes all the detail pop, and the plain border I left round the edge makes the depth stand out even more.
What should I emboss next?
Tell me in the comments on the video. If you're curious what the X1's CO2 laser can do with a rotary, here's how I engraved a tumbler with the RA3.
