This is a fully wrapped powder coated tumbler I made on the xTool X1 with the 55W CO2 laser and the RA3 rotary. Setting the RA3 up on the X1 is a little different to the other xTool machines, mainly because of where the cable has to go, so I wanted to put the whole process in one place.
The video above shows it all happening. Below is the same process written out step by step, with screenshots from my own setup and the exact settings I used.
Jump to: What you need · Locating screws · The cable · Loading the tumbler · xTool Studio setup · Settings · Framing and preview · Why CO2 · Cleaning it up
What you need
- The xTool X1 with the 55W CO2 laser.
- The RA3 rotary and the cable that comes with it.
- The extension cable that comes with the X1. You'll see why in a minute.
- Two tiny locating screws.
- A powder coated tumbler, and a small bubble level.
1. Fit the two locating screws
These screws are absolutely tiny, so don't drop them. You get two, and they have one very specific job.
- Find the two small threaded holes in the X1 base plate where the RA3 goes.
- Screw one into each hole by hand. They just screw straight in.
Once they're in, they act as locating pins for the RA3.
2. Join the cables and seat the RA3
The extension cable has the same connector on both ends. Plug the end of the standard RA3 cable into the extension, male into female, and you've now got one jumbo RA3 cable.
- Plug the cable into the back of the RA3 first. It's much easier before the RA3 is in place. The X on the plug goes upwards.
- Look underneath the RA3 and you'll see two open holes in its base.
- Lower the RA3 so those holes sit over the two locating screws. It just sits over the top.
Once it's on, the screws hold it in place on the X and Y axis, which is what matters for engraving.
Plug into the rear port
This is why you need the long cable. On the X1, the connector port is over on the opposite side of the machine, at the back, so the standard cable won't reach on its own.
- Take the long cable round to the port at the back.
- The plug is keyed. The curved part goes towards the bottom, so it only fits one way.
- Push it in, then move the spare cable out of the way by hand.
I've done a few tumblers set up like this now with no problems at all.
3. Load and level the tumbler
Loading the tumbler is the same as it is on any RA3 setup. I hold it from the inside with the inner grip jaws.
- Turn the knob so the jaws are smaller than the tumbler's opening.
- Slide the tumbler on, then open the jaws until they start gripping.
- Make sure the tumbler is butted up flush against the edge, then tighten it up.
- Place your bubble level on top, where you're going to engrave. If it's not level, undo the knob on the side of the RA3 and adjust the height until the bubble sits in the middle.
Also measure your tumbler's diameter (or the perimeter) before you put it in, because xTool Studio needs it. Mine is 86.8 mm.
4. Set up the rotary in xTool Studio
One thing to know before the screenshots: I didn't record my screen the first time round, so the Studio screens show a blue tumbler. The process is exactly the same as for the black one.
On the right hand panel:
- Set the mode to the rotary attachment. There are two RA3 modes, Manual and Auto. I used RA3 Manual Mode.
- Set the Jaw to Cylinder Jaw-Inner Grip, because I'm holding the tumbler from the inside.
- Type in your diameter (86.8 mm for mine).
- For the height, click the height button to open the measuring tool. Use the arrows to move the red laser dot over the highest point of the tumbler. I like small steps of about 5 mm so I can place it accurately. Close the lid and hit Measure. The camera picture of the tumbler then lines up properly on the canvas.
Studio shows the tumbler in its different orientations down the left, and the center line should run through the middle of your tumbler. If it does, you're good.
Place the design
Import your design. I positioned mine using the camera, and only the camera, so it sits between the silver bands at each end of the tumbler.
My design has high bits and low bits, so it isn't quite a full wrap. If your design is made to be a full wrap, stretch it from the line at the bottom all the way to the line at the top and it will go right the way round.
The design is from Creative Fabrica and comes with a commercial license, so you can use it on products you sell.
5. The settings I used
Select the 55W CO2 as the processing module and switch to Engrave. These are the settings straight from my screen:
| Setting | Value |
|---|---|
| Processing module | 55W CO2, Engrave |
| Power | 55% |
| Speed | 200 mm/s |
| Lines per cm | 120 |
| Pass | 1 |
| Engraving mode | Bi-directional |
| Airflow of air pump | 20% |
| Minimum light output power | 2% |
These haven't been optimized. They're just what I'm using and know work. I'm sure you could go faster, or slower, so take them with a pinch of salt and run a test on a spare tumbler or a scrap first. Powder coats vary from brand to brand.
For other xTool machines, my free Laser Settings Library has nearly 300 settings I've tested, including powder coated tumblers on the F series.
6. Frame it and check the preview
Click Framing. Studio asks you to lift the lid and press the button on the machine, and the head traces out where the design will go, so you can check it's actually going to engrave where you want.
The Preview window is worth a look too. The color is different from the real thing, but it gives you a good idea of how much of the tumbler the design will cover. Once you're happy, hit Process.
Why CO2 is so good for tumblers
These tumblers are stainless steel with a powder coat on the outside. The CO2 laser absorbs really well into that coating and burns it away nice and cleanly. When it hits the bare steel underneath, most of the energy just bounces off.
So it takes the coating off and pretty much stops at the metal. That's what gives you crisp, sharp edges and a consistent finish all the way round. And because the RA3 turns the tumbler as it goes, the design wraps right around it.
7. Clean it up
When it's finished, it comes out looking a bit dusty. That's completely normal. It's just the burnt off powder coat sitting on the surface.
- Take the tumbler off the rotary.
- Give it a good spray with LA's Totally Awesome.
- Wipe it down with a paper towel.
It all comes straight off and the design really starts to come through. Look at the detail in mine: the tiny text is crisp, you can pick out every bone on the skeletons, and it all lines up the whole way round. If you're looking at selling tumblers, this is exactly the kind of thing people want.
What should I engrave next on the X1?
Let me know in the comments on the video. If you'd like to see what the X1's 60W MOPA can do on metal, I've also written up how I embossed a solid brass plaque.
